The Johns' Southeast Oregon Trip, 2001
SOUTHEAST OREGON JULY 23-28 2001
by Marian Johns
We couldn't have asked for better traveling companions. We heard no whining - well, maybe an occasional mumble or grumble about the
dust. We saw some scenic wonders you seldom read or hear about.
The eastern half of Oregon is a virtual desert with sparse vegetation and low rainfall, courtesy of the Cascade Mountains which
capture and hold moisture on their Pacific side. Luckily for us, the
desert clime also limits human settlements. On the other hand, gung ho environmentalists who also covet the beauty and solitude of this land
are in the process of restricting access and "protecting" it from the likes of us by creating Wilderness, Wild and Scenic Rivers and new
national monuments. (Just had to put my two cents worth of opinion in here.)
Bill Ott and Lorene Crawford were our back-up navigators. Reda
Anderson 
graciously
manned the sweep position all week. Ted and Joan Berger endured our relentless jibes about their big noisy diesel pickup.
CB entertainment, in the form of frequent trivia quizzes, was supplied by Mike and
Phyllis Aguilar. Dave Welbourn saved the life of the lost Indian we found (story later). And yours' truly, along with current
hubby, Neal, piloted these adventurers and enjoyed a dust-free view at the head of our caravan. The solution to dust is to become a trip
leader. Hint. Hint.
Monday morning we assembled at our Ft. Rock State Park and viewed first-hand the 400 ft. high circular tuff formation of Ft. Rock which
sits aloof above the surrounding sagebrush flats. 
Oregon is largely a volcanic creation and we readily saw its
violent past not only at Ft. Rock but also at Hole in the Ground about 15 miles to the west.
Geologists believe this crater was formed by an
enormous explosion which occurred when molten lava came in contact with the ancient lake that once covered this region. Nearby is Crack in the Ground, a tension crack in the earth's
surface. About two miles long, its width varies from 10-15 ft. and is up to 70 ft. deep.
We enjoyed a cool respite here. We meandered through the Lost Forest, an ancient grove of isolated
ponderosa pines and junipers. The junipers are the state's largest and many are over 1000 years old.
Next was Glass Butte, one of the world's largest obsidian outcropping - a flint
knapper's paradise. We got ourselves into a bit of a pickle when we, led by me, tried to ascend Glass Butte via a
little-used "road" which ended abruptly on a steep side slope. It took half an hour to get everyone turned around and back down to more level
ground.
Tuesday we visited the Round Barn built by Pete French back in the 1800's. 
It boasts a diameter of 100 ft., a 60 ft.
inner rock wall and 12 giant juniper poles that support a roof covered with 50,000 shingles.
Next, a tour through the lava fields of Diamond Craters and a portion of Malheur Marsh brought us to the base of Steens Mountain and
the tiny hamlet of Frenchglen. We had lunch at the old Frenchglen Hotel and then drove up the gentle western slope of Steens Mountain which
climbs to 9,000 ft.- the highest road in Oregon. The trip up gives no clue to the spectacular views of
huge glacier-carved valleys that await at the top, nor the dramatic, near-vertical drop-off of the eastern face
and the Alvord Desert 5,000 ft. below. 
Then it was down Catlow Valley and across to the Alvord Desert and the small community of Fields noted
for its great milkshakes. Resistless Neal had one for dinner.
North of Fields, we bypassed Alvord Hot Springs temporarily and continued two miles farther to Indian Creek where we found an inviting
place to camp beside a green ribbon of willows and cottonwoods watered by a small stream.
Wednesday morning, most of us returned to the hot springs for a welcome dip. We found a dressing room, a wooden deck and two concrete
pools, one of which is enclosed. It's open to the sky above, the surrounding mountains, the desert, and to anyone who cares to stop. A little later we took an unknown, but shorter dotted line road to
Burns Junction i.e., our spirit of adventure was alive and well. On the way we stopped at Mickey Hot Springs which, reportedly, simmers at 200
degrees. 
Several pools and small vents emit steam and bubbling water. A
BLM sign warns visitors of a deceptively thin surface over nature's hot water plumbing.
A few miles farther, we came to an unnamed Artesian well with an impressive flow of cold water. It's a mystery how those dry and desolate
mountains squeeze out so much water. A small group of wild horses was observed along the way and also a herd of approximately 30 pronghorn
antelope. Of course they ran off before I could find the camera in the chaos that exists behind our front seats.
We soon reached Jordan Valley and stopped there for lunch at the Basque Inn. Then it was onward to beautiful Leslie Gulch
with its
colorful eroded formations and spires. Last year we were thrilled see 10 big horn sheep here. We weren't expecting to be so lucky this year, but
low and behold, there were seven in just about the same place where we saw them before.
We made camp that evening in Succor Creek State Recreation Area, another lovely spot with a pretty creek, towering walls and more
colorful formations. The canyon was alive with chuckar, quail and sage hens.
Thursday's destination was the Owyhee River via the route past Jordan Craters and down Birch Creek.
This access to the river got
everyone's attention, not only because of its impressive vistas, but also because of the steep switchbacks. Along the way, we spotted another
group of big horn - this time we counted eleven. Once at the bottom, we drove down river to a spot under some shady trees for lunch.
Then we
headed farther south to Three Forks where the South, Middle and main Owyhee Rivers join. We discovered this gem of a place last year and I
consider it to be one of our all-time best finds. Here, warm springs cascade out of the canyon walls into the river below. Most everyone
waded across the river to the nicest of the warm springs 
that evening
for a refreshing soak. Unfortunately, if the pro-Wild and Scenic River crowd gets its way, this access road will be closed (mumble grumble).
Friday morning we started off to explore more forks of the Owyhee River in southwestern Idaho. This trek took us into unknown territory.
Even after careful study of our maps, we weren't sure where to start, so we stopped at a Duck Water Valley Indian Reservation office for
directions and were kindly offered a guide to take us to the beginning of the road we needed. Once oriented, we were able to find our way to
the rim of Owyhee's East Fork canyon. The road down to the river was a bitchy, snail-paced one filled with boulders. At the bottom, however, we
were rewarded with a beautiful campsite right beside the river. 
The next morning we needed four wheel drive getting out of the river gorge.
At the top we were greeted by a lone Indian who, we soon
learned, was lost. So much for their once touted survival skills. The day before, he and a friend had tried to drive from McDermitt, Nevada to
Owyhee, Idaho using dirt roads as a short cut instead of taking the highway. Without maps, they were soon lost and wandered around in
circles until they eventually came to the East Fork. Since they were running low on gas, our lost friend, Nelson McKee, offered to walk down
to see if the road crossed the river. The road didn't cross, so after two hours, Nelson returned to the truck at the top only to find his
friend and the truck gone! It was getting late so he walked back down to the river where he spent a chilly night feeding mosquitos. In the
morning he began to walk again and luckily found us.
Dave Welbourn cleared off his passenger seat and offered Nelson a ride which he gladly
accepted although we were headed for the even more remote South Fork and Little Fork. We dug out our new emergency satellite phone and contacted
the sheriff to let authorities know that Nelson was alright - in case anyone was looking for him.
The road to the South Fork was long and tedious but once there, the views of the canyons and river were spectacular. At the bottom
we found
the 45 Ranch, now owned by the Nature Conservancy. After lunch by the river, we headed back to civilization, where we dropped Nelson off.
About 4:00 p.m. I suddenly remembered that it was my birthday and we all agreed to have a birthday dinner in Elko, Nevada. Upon arrival there, we
collapsed in motel rooms and later walked over to the Biltoki Basque restaurant. What a meal! Soup, salad, seasoned green beans, Basque
beans, spaghetti, French fries, paella (a rice dish with clams, shrimp, crab claws and sausage), tri-tip beef, tongue, lamb, and halibut, plus
ice cream for dessert - a fitting end for a fine week.
