Marian Johns' Journal of the Desert
Explorers trip to Peru in 2002
Images by John Page unless otherwise noted
Day 13, September
16, Monday
Machu Picchu See Map
Sept. 16, Monday – Machu Picchu day! Mary, John Hunt, and Paul were able to go on the early train – there were three extra seats.
Our later 10:00 train ride was uneventful, but the scenery was extraordinary. I don’t remember the canyon walls so high or so nearly vertical. And I don’t remember a tourist town at the end of the train trip like there is today. Back then, I think the train went farther down the Urubamba River canyon and stopped directly across from the road up to the ruins. Now the train stops at Aguas Calientes (new name is Machu Picchu Pueblo) and then the buses have to drive down the canyon a ways before they cross the river and start up the switchbacks to the ruins. I have read that a landslide destroyed the rail line below Aguas Calientes and there are no plans to rebuild it.
Years ago, when we got off the train, we didn’t realize we needed to get in line to buy bus tickets, and by the time we figured out what was going on, we could only get tickets for one of the last buses going up (not really buses back then, but more like big Suburbans – I think). With only two hours to see such a large site, we were forced to rush around. This time we had about four and a half hours, most of it with our guide. That was actually enough time for me. I was pooped by the time we finished – hiking up and down wore me out.
The site of Machu Picchu is breathtaking. Those Incas and pre-Columbian Indians must have explored every inch of this area over time. Even before Bingham “discovered” it, the local folks knew of it.
Early on in the planning process of this trip, we considered staying at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Hotel which is located right up by the ruins.
However, we didn’t have to consider very long – with a price tag of $300+ for a room, we all felt our money could be better spent some other way.
Our 5:20 train (the Backpacker) ran out of daylight returning to Ollantaytambo. We arrived back at the hotel about 6:45 in the dark. The hotel had dinner ready, so we ate right away – creamed chicken over yuca, rice, veggie soup with quinoa, and a cooked corn starch-like dessert with a pleasant fruity flavor. Another $10. The hotel is owned by an American woman, Wendy Weeks, but we saw neither hide nor hair of her. However, her son was there and he and several helpers seemed to have things under control. I have caught Joann’s cold – my throat is scratchy. Those diesel fumes don’t help either.
